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Years Of Service
- 01892 543213
- admin@fwrt.org.uk
- 9.00am - 5.00pm
Badgers are the frequent victims of road traffic accidents. The majority of them are killed outright but many others remain alive by the roadside or crawl into nearby undergrowth.
If you hit a badger or see an injured animal in or by the roadside, put your hazard lights on and if possible, position your vehicle so as to afford protection for the injured animal from on-coming traffic. If you keep a reflective tabard in the car, put it on, as there is a very real danger from other road users who may not see you in the dark. Once it is safe to do so, check to see whether the animal is still alive. A gentle prod with a long stick is the safest way to do this, but do not use your hands or feet, as even mortally injured badgers can give a very serious bite.
If you can (keeping your hands well clear of its head) cover the animal completely with a coat or blanket, as this will help keep it calm and reduce the chance of it crawling further out into the road.
The following organizations also offer assistance:
Badgers Trust (Sussex) – 07910 198720
Badgers Trust (West Sussex) – 01243 825804
East Sussex Wildlife Rescue Ambulance Service – 07815 078234
RSPCA – 0300 1234 999
South Downs Badger Protection Society – 0777 1912927
West Kent Badger Group – 01474 703948
Badger cubs are often left orphaned when their mothers have been killed in road traffic or other accidents. If the cubs are large enough (around 6-8 weeks old) they will sometimes make their way to the surface of the sett, and if very lucky, may be found by a member of the public (often someone walking their dog). By this time though they are usually in very poor condition and need immediate treatment if their lives are to be saved. Even small badgers can bite, so it is best to pick them up in a coat or similar item of clothing.
Call the Helpline 01892 543213 for advice.
Some orphaned cubs (especially the older ones) will sometimes survive for several weeks out on their own and are often seen wandering around in daylight hours, looking for food. They usually have very poor coats and a debilitated look about them, but can still be difficult to catch, so if you come across one, it’s best to phone for assistance. If you do decide to capture one of these cubs yourself, take care, as they can give a nasty bite and shouldn’t be handled without very stout gloves or a large towel or coat. A cat basket is the best thing to contain one in.
Older cubs will often come above ground in late April and May to explore the area around the sett and will even do this in daylight. This is normal behavior, so do not attempt to pick one up (you will also get bitten!)
Slow, dehydrated looking cubs (often with poor coats) found wandering in the daytime, should be reported immediately, as they may be sick or injured. They can be restrained (with care!) using a thick coat and then transferred into a cat or dog carrying basket until you can get help.
Badgers are sometimes found caught in snares. If you come across one, do not attempt to free it, as you will be bitten. Additionally, an animal in a snare will have severe compression injuries that will require immediate veterinary treatment. If you can do it safely, cover the animal’s head with a coat, as this will help to calm it, but do not put yourself at risk. Otherwise keep well clear of the animal as this will help reduce stress (it doesn’t know you are trying to help it) and call the Helpline 01892 543213 for advice.
The hedgehog is probably the nation’s favourite mammal, but they are now in serious decline.
Hedgehogs have always lived in close proximity to humans and are far more common in villages and towns than they are in the countryside. In consequence, they are very vulnerable to being killed and injured man-made accidents.
One of the most common remarks we hear at Folly Wildlife Rescue is “we used to see a lot of hedgehogs in our garden, but not anymore”. Sadly, this seems to be increasingly the case. Former strongholds are now completely devoid of hedgehogs and remaining populations elsewhere are often small, isolated pockets that are extremely vulnerable to further depletions.
In a typical year we admit some 500 hedgehogs to the centre, the majority of which have been injured in some way: entanglement in discarded garden or games netting, injury by garden machinery, poisoning by pesticides and herbicides, road traffic accidents, burning in bonfires, being stuck down drains, falling into steep-sided ponds and pools or attack by domestic dogs, are just a few of the more common examples.
More significantly, hedgehog habitats are now under increasing threat: new housing developments, the modern trend of fencing gardens with closeboard fences, the increasing use of chemical pesticides and over-tidy gardens, are all contributing to their decline.
But a more sinister development now seems to be at work. In recent years, many centres working with hedgehogs have reported the admission of large numbers of small animals,that, having been born very late in the season (sometimes in October) have not had sufficient time to accumulate the fat reserves needed for hibernation. Once the cold weather arrives, they quickly succumb and are often found wandering around in the daytime, searching for food; most by this time are in very poor condition.
Ideally, a hedgehog should weigh 500-600gms at the start of winter, but many of these late-born animals (often termed ‘autumn juveniles’) are under 200gms. This could well be a direct result of climate change, which combined with the poor, wet summers we have been experiencing, could now be affecting the hedgehog’s breeding pattern.
Reports in recent years by the Mammal Society and the British Hedgehog Preservation Society suggest that unless something is done soon, the hedgehog, it could be heading for extinction in the UK within 20 years.
Ideally, a hedgehog should weigh 500-600gms at the start of winter, but many of these late-born animals (often termed ‘autumn juveniles’) are under 200gms. This could well be a direct result of climate change, which combined with the poor, wet summers we have been experiencing, could now be affecting the hedgehog’s breeding pattern.
Reports in recent years by the Mammal Society and the British Hedgehog Preservation Society suggest that unless something is done soon, the hedgehog, it could be heading for extinction in the UK within 20 years.
As well as the injuries hedgehogs suffer at the hand of man, they are also susceptible to a number of ailments and illnesses. Chief amongst these is lungworm (which is often seen in the young autumn juvenile animals mentioned above) but if caught in time, it can be treated, as can two other common diseases, ringworm and sarcoptic mange.
All hedgehogs admitted to Folly Wildlife Rescue are given reference numbers so that after treatment they can be returned to where they came from.
If you are lucky enough to have hedgehogs in your garden and want to do your bit to help them, the following points are worth considering:
Avoid putting in fencing of the closeboard type or erecting garden walls that may restrict your local hedgehog population’s ability to freely roam. Hedgehogs will cover up to half a km every night in their search for food, so if you already have a fence or wall in place, try cutting a small hole, 15cm square at the base to allow them to pass freely between gardens.
We are frequently contacted by well-meaning people who wish to ‘adopt’ or give a home to a disabled hedgehog, to help keep the slugs down in their gardens. In the past we did experiment with this but unfortunately it never worked.
Disabled hedgehogs need to have regular health checks and the walled and ‘hedgehog-proof’ gardens we put them in never held them for long, so we stopped many years ago.
If there are hedgehogs in the area, you can encourage them to visit you by providing a suitable hedgehog habitat (i.e. nice and wild) but if you never see them, then they have either died out or there is another reason for their absence, such as a busy road or badger sett nearby.
If you want to learn more about hedgehogs and their surroundings, contact the British Hedgehog Preservation Society www.britishhedgehogs.org.uk or Hedgehog Street www.hedgehogstreet.org.
Foxes, like badgers, are the frequent victims of road traffic accidents.
If you hit a fox or see an injured animal in or by the roadside, put your hazard lights on and if possible, position your vehicle so as to afford protection for the injured animal from on-coming traffic. If you keep a reflective tabard in the car, put it on, as there is a very real danger from other road users who may not see you in the dark. Once it is safe to do so, check to see whether the animal is still alive. A gentle prod with a long stick is the safest way to do this, but do not use your hands or feet, as you may get bitten.
If you can (keeping your hands well clear of its head) cover the animal completely with a coat or blanket, as this will help keep it calm and reduce the chance of it crawling further out into the road.
For all Fox releated enquiries outside of normal working hours of The Fox Project please call the RSPCA on 0300 1234 999
Foxes often suffer from sarcoptic mange. There are several forms of the disease which is caused by a microscopic mite living under the skin.
Foxes with mange suffer hair loss (which often starts at the base of the tail) and intense irritation, followed by secondary bacterial infection that causes the sweet mangy odour so indicative of the condition.
Untreated foxes slowly become emaciated and as their ability to hunt is impaired, many die of a combination of infection, dehydration and starvation.
If a fox with mange can be trapped in time, veterinary drugs are available that will cure it. The Fox Project specialises in trapping foxes and should be contacted for advice.
Foxes are often caught in snares, which are still legal in the UK. They suffer appallingly in these devices which also trap badgers and domestic dogs and cats.
If you come across one, do not attempt to free it, as you may well be bitten. Additionally, an animal in a snare will have severe compression injuries that will require immediate veterinary treatment. If you can do it safely, cover the animal’s head with a coat, as this will help to calm it. Otherwise keep well clear of the animal as this will help reduce stress (it doesn’t know you are trying to help it) and call the The Fox Project on the number above for assistance.
People often pick up fox cubs in the mistaken belief that they are ‘orphaned’ or ‘abandoned’. This is not usually the case, but simply that the vixen, perceiving a threat, has moved her cubs and while doing so, has been disturbed. She leaves them until the coast is clear and when it is safe, returns to collect them.
If you come across a cub or cubs, they should, unless they appear injured or ill, be left alone.
Foxes can often be seen limping. There are many possible reasons, ranging from being hit by a car, attacked by a dog, a fight with another fox, or being shot with an airgun or other weapon.
Very often, if the wound does not become infected, the animal makes a full recovery.
Support feeding, in the form of some food scraps or tinned dog food will help aid recovery, as the need to hunt will be reduced, but once the animal has done so, reduce the food and then stop altogether. Foxes do not need additional food put out for them.
Road traffic accidents involving deer are extremely common in the region. During the autumn months, when the movement of deer at dawn and dusk to their feeding grounds coincides with the rush hour and when the rut or breeding season is in full swing, the Helpline receives at least one and sometimes two or three calls a day reporting accidents.
If you hit a deer or see an injured animal in or by the roadside, put your hazard lights on and if possible, position your vehicle so as to afford protection for the injured animal from on-coming traffic. Do not park too close to the animal. Deer are nervous and highly-strung. If you keep a reflective tabard in the car, put it on, as there is a very real danger from other road users who may not see you. If the animal is still alive DO NOT APPROACH IT.
Some authorities and even police forces advocate throwing a coat over the animal’s head to help calm it, but in our experience this very action can make the situation worse. Deer are powerful and dangerous animals which under normal circumstances will not tolerate the presence of humans. Antlers and hooves are formidable weapons and many people attempting to help have been badly injured by deer which have either suddenly sprung up or kicked them.
The prognosis for these animals is very poor, as although three-legged deer do survive in the wild, the practical considerations of carrying out such a procedure (and it is not an option for male animals which must be able to fight and defend territory) are extremely doubtful.
Sports netting of the kind used for badminton, tennis, football and cricket practice, rope swings, discarded rope and wire and electric fencing is a major hazard for deer, especially males with antlers, which during the rut will often rub them against such items to mark their territory. This netting is often still secured to posts, making escape impossible.
Deer in these situations are extremely dangerous as they are often still free-running and should only be freed by experienced persons. Do not attempt to cut netting free if the animal is still entangled as it will only become caught again somewhere else.
If you come across a deer trapped in fencing or entangled in netting or rope, do not attempt to free it yourself.
Deer, especially young animals, are frequently caught by a rear leg in stock fencing or become entangled in electric fencing, games netting or discarded ropes and other rubbish.
Stock fencing is especially dangerous to deer. Very young animals, following their mothers and not able to jump it, will sometimes attempt to climb through it and become caught by the haunches, resulting in major soft tissue injuries. Some of these animals can be successfully treated, but due to the likelihood that any treatment will be extensive, re-establishing contact with their mothers is unlikely and provision has to be made for a long stay in captivity until they are independent.
Larger youngsters (and even adults), attempting to jump stock fencing will sometimes slip and become trapped in the two strands of wire that is frequently used to top this kind of fencing. The animal then falls to the ground, with its whole weight suspended on the extended leg. In its struggle to free itself, the animal’s hock will often be completely cut through to the bone, destroying the blood vessels, nerves and tendons.
The prognosis for these animals is very poor, as although three-legged deer do survive in the wild, the practical considerations of carrying out such a procedure (and it is not an option for male animals which must be able to fight and defend territory) are extremely doubtful.
Sports netting of the kind used for badminton, tennis, football and cricket practice, rope swings, discarded rope and wire and electric fencing is a major hazard for deer, especially males with antlers, which during the rut will often rub them against such items to mark their territory. This netting is often still secured to posts, making escape impossible.
Deer in these situations are extremely dangerous as they are often still free-running and should only be freed by experienced persons. Do not attempt to cut netting free if the animal is still entangled as it will only become caught again somewhere else.
If you come across a deer trapped in fencing or entangled in netting or rope, do not attempt to free it yourself.
Deer are more common in towns than is thought and will often come into gardens to eat roses and other plants.
We receive many calls regarding deer that are apparently trapped in gardens, having jumped fences which they then seem unable to jump back over. Usually, it is just that they have been discovered before they can leave, so the best option is to vacate the scene and leave them in peace, certainly until the following day, when invariably they are found to be gone.
It is very important that they are left alone and not approached. If your garden is small, pull the curtains at the rear of the house and keep children and dogs indoors. This may be inconvenient but is by far the best option. Attempts to capture deer in confined spaces such as these may even result in them jumping through windows in their efforts to escape and a deer driven from a garden in daylight may well be a hazard to drivers and pedestrians as it is likely to panic.
It can be helpful once it is dusk, to carefully open a back gate to help facilitate its escape. It is likely that the deer knows exactly where to go once night falls.
For the first few weeks after birth, deer fawns are left for much of the day on their own, in patches of undergrowth and long grass, with the mother only returning to feed them early in the morning and at night. She is also very likely to be close by.
If you come across a deer fawn in this situation, it is sometimes automatic to think that it has been orphaned or abandoned, but this is not likely to be the case. Retire immediately and do not handle it. If you have a dog with you, keep it on a lead and well away from the fawn.Â
If a fawn has been picked up (and even taken home) by a member of the public, all is not lost, as it is still possible to reunite a fawn with its mother up to 24 hours after being removed.
We admit so many birds that it’s impossible to give general advice on them; species, size, shape, temperament and needs, vary so much. If you need to report a casualty or think a bird has been abandoned or orphaned, please contact us first (unless the animal is in immediate danger, when you may need to take prompt action) for advice. Phone the HELPLINE on 01892 543213.
Every year Folly Wildlife Rescue admits some 2500 birds. The following are a few of the most common incidents we deal with:
Some authorities state that under no circumstance whatsoever should you pick up a baby bird and this is now so ingrained in people that many will stick to that line, even when it is pretty obvious that the circumstances demand they should intervene, i.e. they have just chopped down a shrub in their garden and baby birds have spilled out onto the ground.
Very often, we’re asked whether it would be better if ‘nature was allowed to take its course’. The answer is emphatically no, because generally, nature hasn’t had a hand in it at all.
Any nestling bird (a ‘nestling’ being a bird that has not yet fledged or left the nest) that is displaced from its nest, whether through destruction of the nest, cat attack or even blown out in high winds, should be picked up and brought into care. The parents are not able to return these babies to the nest and although they may well continue to feed them for a short while on the ground, they will eventually abandon them to their fate (i.e. certain death). Do not attempt to put any nestlings in another bird’s nest, in the nest they were originally in (that is now on the ground) and back up in another tree, or in any sort of basket or container that you think may replicate the original nest; it does not work and wastes precious time.
Birds that have fledged (a fledgling is a bird that has left the nest), are a bit different. Many species (but not all) have, on fledging, only partial flight, and as it can take several days for the muscles to strengthen sufficiently, they spend this time hiding in dense shrubs and bushes with the parent birds bringing food to them. In addition, some fledglings, especially robins, blackbirds and song thrushes have little natural fear at this stage and will often approach people (and cats!) or even come into the house. Unless they are in immediate danger, they should be left alone, or gently ushered back into some nearby undergrowth.
Many fledglings advertise their whereabouts to their parents by cheeping periodically, but this of course helpfully pin-points their exact location to every cat in the area.
Unfortunately, with the proliferation of domestic cats in recent years (there are now estimated to be 10 million), huge numbers are killed or injured before they can fly properly and sometimes, one or both parents are killed trying to protect them.
If you suspect your cat is killing birds, keep it in for a few days. Any fledglings that have been injured or are in immediate danger should be picked up. If a cat brings a baby bird (or for that matter any animal) home in its mouth, do not under any circumstances put it back out again (the cat will soon catch it again), as it will certainly need treatment.
Cats will also target blue tit nest boxes and through their presence in the vicinity, will cause the parents to abandon the nest. Always ensure that bird boxes are well away from the ground and that cats can’t climb up to them. If a box has been abandoned, don’t try and move it to another location, as the adult birds will invariably ignore it. The young (and the nest box) should come into care for hand-rearing.
Sometimes one or both parents will be killed by cats as they leave the nest. A single parent will continue to try to feed the young, but because of the workload involved (or the continued threat of cats), will soon abandon them to their fate. Baby blue tits can be successfully hand-reared, but time is of the essence, so don’t delay getting advice.
All other birds attacked by cats need to come into care. Don’t be tempted to release them because they appear ‘all right’. Cat’s claw’s harbour dangerous bacteria and any injury left untreated will invariably lead to infection and death.
In a report a few years ago, the British Trust for Ornithology, estimated that 90 million birds a year in the UK fly into windows and that some 30 million of these are killed.
This is a very common problem and occurs when a bird, especially a young inexperienced one, seeing the outline of bushes and shrubs reflected in a window, tries to fly into them, often at high speed. We’ve all probably heard the ‘thud’ of a small bird hitting a window (and sometimes there’s dusty outline of it left on the glass) and generally the bird flies off uninjured, but in some cases the impact is so hard it is either killed outright or falls to the ground, stunned. If you find one, the best thing to do is put it in a box or cat basket (if you leave a bird on the ground it’s vulnerable to cats and other predators) and leave it quite, either in the house or in a shed for 20 minutes or so. Many make a full recovery and can be released, but if the bird cannot stand, has one or both feet ‘clawed’ or is propping itself up with its wings, the injury is likely to be more severe and it will require treatment.
Every year we admit ducks, pheasants, herons and cormorants which have been injured by shotgun pellets and left to die by ‘sportsmen’. These birds have usually suffered multiple injuries and few can be saved.
Another common cause of injury is the airgun pellet, often inflicted by a peculiar breed of person who delights in taking ‘pot shots’ from out of their bedroom window. Pigeons, woodpigeons, jackdaws and collared doves are frequent victims and suffer appalling injuries. This is completely illegal and anyone doing it should be reported to the Police. It is also extremely dangerous, as people have been badly injured or even killed by stray airgun pellets.
Local councils too often employ pest control companies to shoot pigeons (often in the evening when the birds are roosting) in the mistaken belief that they can ‘control’ them. This is not true; pigeon numbers can be controlled but the best method is to clamp down on the people who drop ‘fast food’ and the food outlets who fail to promote hygienic waste food management. Steps also need to be taken to ensure that ledges, walkways and window sills are properly protected and that empty shops and buildings are made inaccessible to pigeons with correctly installed and well maintained, pigeon deterrents.
Frogs fall victim to cats and are sometimes injured by garden mowers and strimmers. If you are using one of these, especially in long grass or overgrown areas, it’s always a good idea to thoroughly check the site first.
We receive many calls from members of the public who are worried about unusual-looking spiders, caterpillars and other invertebrates they have come across. Very often these turn out to be native species (such as the striking larva of the elephant hawk moth or large specimens of the garden spider) but occasionally, non-native, but naturalised species (such as the tube-web spider and the false widow spider) are involved. Although not dangerous, they can look a little formidable!
We can also put you in contact with local bee keepers who will deal with swarms.
Only two types of lizard are found in the region, the common lizard and the slow-worm, which is a legless species. The majority of the casualties we see have been injured by cats, but garden machines, especially strimmers, also take their toll. If you’re using one of these, do check the area to be cleared thoroughly before you commence work.
Both species will, when attacked by a cat, cast their tails. This is a defensive manoeuvre, as the cast tail then wiggles rapidly, the cat is distracted, allowing the lizard to escape; that’s the theory, but it doesn’t always work. If the animal survives the attack, it will eventually re-grow the tail.
We admit many mice, voles and shrews which have either fallen victim to cats or have had their nests disturbed.
Injured animals should always be admitted for treatment. The most common species are wood mice, house mice, long-tailed field vole and the common shrew but we also see the occasional harvest mouse, bank vole and pygmy shrew.
If you disturb a nest when clearing out the garden shed or working in the garden, do not handle the young, but cover them up quickly and retire. The mother may have been seen to shoot off, but if left completely undisturbed for a few hours, she will usually return and move them to a safe place.
Moles are very territorial and outside of the breeding season will not tolerate another mole in their home range. At the end of the breeding season the young are driven out and disperse to find their own territories.Â
This dispersal is above ground and the mortality rate at this time is extremely high. They are sometimes presented to us after having been caught by cats. Handle a mole with care, using stout gloves as they have very sharp teeth!
Comparatively few rats are admitted and those that are have frequently found to have been poisoned. Symptoms include general sluggishness and instability. Even very sick rats are likely to bite, so it isn’t a good idea to try and pick one up; many also carry Weil’s disease, which can be fatal to humans, so great attention must be paid to personal hygiene.
Nests of baby rats are sometimes admitted here after having been disturbed, but they are difficult and problematic to rear, so whenever possible, they should be left alone as the mother will usually return and move them to a safer place.
Two of the UK’s three species of snake are found in the region, the grass snake and the adder.
Nine out of every 10 calls we receive involve the non-venomous and completely harmless grass snake, a common visitor to garden ponds where it hunts frogs and small fish.
Very occasionally the snake will be an adder and most of those we admit have become entangled in garden netting. Adders are not normally aggressive (unless handled or threatened) but in these situations the animal will be frightened and is likely to bite, so the disentangling should only be carried out by an expert.
Only 10 or so people in the UK have died after being bitten by adders in the last 100 years, so they are not a major threat to life and limb.
Adders are protected by law and must not be harmed.
The grey squirrel is a non-native species introduced to the UK from North America in the 19th and 20th centuries.
Prior to 2018, Folly Wildlife Rescue were able, under a licence issued by Natural England, to admit, treat and return to the wild a small number of injured or orphaned grey squirrels, but with the introduction of the Alien Invasive Species Order 2019, this is no longer possible, as all licences to return the species to the wild have now been withdrawn.
Very regrettably, this is a situation beyond our control, and we have to abide by the law.
Squirrels can cause considerable damage as they will chew items stored in the loft as well as electrical cables.
Baby squirrels, often orphaned after their mothers have been killed in road traffic accidents or injured when their nests have been attacked by crows, will approach people and even follow them around. In these instances it is best to pick them up in a tea towel or with gloves and confine them in a cat basket or stout cardboard box until you can get help.
The stoat and its smaller relative, the weasel, are members of the same family as badgers, ferrets and otters.
Cats will sometimes attack weasels and the young of both species are sometimes brought to us after having been found wiggling around in the grass. It’s very likely that the mother has been moving them and then been disturbed in the process.
During the spring migration to their breeding grounds, many toads are killed and injured by cars.
Toads also suffer crushing injuries when log piles are dismantled.
Like frogs, they are often the victims of garden machines such as mowers and strimmers. If you are using one of these machines, follow the guidelines above for Frogs.
How do you tell the difference between a frog and a toad? Toads are generally stouter, have a warty appearance and walk rather than hop. Frogs are also more ‘pointy’ in appearance, have smooth skins and hop rather than walk.
We are extremely thankful for you support and your generous donations and contributions.
Years Of Service
Admitted Animals Per Year
Funds Raised - November 2024
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All information given is kept private and confidential. We only use the information provided for the purpose of volunteer selection. Once completed please click on the 'Submit' button at the bottom of the page and we will contact you in due course.
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All information given is kept private and confidential. We only use the information provided for the purpose of volunteer selection. Once completed please click on the 'Submit' button at the bottom of the page and we will contact you in due course.
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All information given is kept private and confidential. We only use the information provided for the purpose of volunteer selection. Once completed please click on the 'Submit' button at the bottom of the page and we will contact you in due course.
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All information given is kept private and confidential. We only use the information provided for the purpose of volunteer selection. Once completed please click on the 'Submit' button at the bottom of the page and we will contact you in due course.
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